PAINTING
TOOL USE AND CARE
CHOOSING BRUSHES:
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Choose a good nylon or polyester filament brush
when applying latex paint or any water-based paint.
When applying oil based paints, varnishes or lacquers,
select a good natural bristle brush.
In selecting a brush, you should choose one, which
is wide enough to coat an area in a reasonable amount
of time. For large areas, choose a wide brush probably
4" or 5" in width. When painting windows
or trim, use a narrower brush probably 1" to
1 ½" width preferably an angle sash
brush. The bristles should be long and thick so
that they will hold a good load of paint and flexible
so that you can stroke evenly and smoothly. Medium
priced brushes are the best investment if you do
only occasional painting.
USING A BRUSH:
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The use of a brush assures good contact of the
paint with pores, cracks, and crevices in the wood.
Brushing is recommended for applying primer coats
or spraying and then back brushing or back rolling
to exterior coats.
Paint should be brushed up and down, then across
for even distribution. On rough surface it is wise
to vary the direction of the strokes so that the
paint will work into the substrate and penetrate
thoroughly. The brush should be held at a slight
angle when applying the paint; pressure should be
moderate and even. Excessive pressure or stuffing
the brush into corners and cracks can damage the
bristles.
Start painting from top to bottom. Work towards
the wet edge of the previously painted area, making
sure not to try to cover too large of an area surface.
Freshly applied paint should be leveled as much
as possible. This is done through the process of
smoothing the paint surface with final light strokes
of the brush. Smooth the paint in a single direction
to keep the surface finish consistent.
CHOOSING A ROLLER:
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Here is a list we've generated to help you choose
the right nap of roller for your job:
Popcorn ceiling use 1" to 1½ nap rollers.
Rough (stucco) textured walls use 1" to ¾"
nap rollers.
Heavy textured walls use ¾" nap rollers.
Lightly textured walls use ½" to ¾"
nap rollers.
Smooth textured walls use ½ to ¾ nap
rollers.
Doors and furniture use ¼”, 3/8"
to ½" nap rollers.
BRUSH AND ROLLER CARE:
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Use tap water to remove latex paint from your brush.
Use paint thinner to remove oil-based paints, and
varnish; alcohol to remove shellac; and special
solvents to remove lacquer. It is a good idea to
use rubber gloves when cleaning brushes and rollers.
If you are planning to use your brush the next day
you can rap your rush in plastic and store it in
the refrigerator to keep it from drying out.
SPRAY APPLICATION:
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Paint sprayers are particularly useful for large
areas. Spraying is much faster than brushing or
rolling, and although some paint will likely be
wasted through over spraying, the savings in time
and effort may more than compensate for any additional
paint cost. Once you have perfected your spraying
technique, you can produce a coating with excellent
uniformity in thickness and appearance.
Surface areas that are difficult to access with
the brush or roller can readily be coated with the
sprayer. All finishes can be applied satisfactorily
by the spray technique. When applying the primer
coat, liberally spray primer then back brush or
back roll. This will help work the primer into the
siding.
Pre-preparation is important. Ask your spray dealer
to show you exactly how the sprayer works, and give
you pointers on how to use it to the best advantage.
Always read and follow all safety warnings in the
instruction manual and or manufacturer's literature.
Keep all literature for future reference. Follow
all recommendations regarding the use of protective
clothing, eyewear and equipment. When renting or
purchasing a paint sprayer make sure you get a reversible
spray tip for your spray gun (for ease of cleaning
clogs as you are painting). The spray fan should
be 12 - 18 inches wide preferable 12 inches. If
you are not that familiar with spraying techniques
this will give you better control of the spray gun.
Try to get a sprayer that is powerful enough to
spray paint without thinning. If you have to thin
the paint follow manufacturer's instructions. If
the paint is too thin, the paint may sag, or run
after it is applied. If it is too thick it may clog
the spray valves. Use a respirator to avoid inhalation
of vapors. Use drop cloths, tarps, or newspapers
to cover everything close to the work area that
is not to be painted. Mask windows door and any
items that should not be painted. Avoid spray painting
on windy days because the mist can be carried over
large areas causing damage to nearby buildings,
cars or other objects.
Mix all containers of paint of the same color together
to avoid color shifting between paint containers.
Tie a strainer bag around the sprayer's siphon hose.
This will strain the paint as it goes through the
machine. It is best to use a 5-gallon bucket when
spraying. Put the siphon hose into a 5-gallon bucket;
pour the paint into the 5-gallon bucket with the
siphon hose. Test the thickness of paint being applied.
Set pressure gauge on paint sprayer about ¼
turn from lowest setting, (it is better not to spray
at full pressure); hold the spray gun perpendicular
to the surface, 12-14" away. Move the gun parallel
to the surface at a steady rate. Start the strokes
off the target surface and pull the trigger after
the gun is moving. While the gun is still moving,
release the trigger as you approach the edge of
the substrate. Check for excessive build up. If
excessive build up is present, use a roller or burs
to smooth the surface out, turn the pressure down
or move further away form the surface. After finding
the right distance for painting, move the spray
gun parallel to the surface with even strokes back
and forth across the area. Spray corner and edges
first. Move the gun at a speed that will apply a
full wet coating without runs or sags (fix runs
and sags immediately with a brush or roller). Lap
each stroke at about 50% over the previous stroke
for uniform paint thickness. A spray shield can
be made from a cardboard box. Cut a piece of the
cardboard about 12" X 36" this will help
you from over spraying.
SPRAYER CARE:
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Clean the sprayer promptly before the paint dries.
If oil based paints are used, clean with the same
solvent used to thin the paint. After using a latex
paint, clean with a detergent and warm water. If
the fluid tip becomes clogged, it can be cleaned
with a broom straw, (to avoid this problem use a
reversible tip). Never use wire or a nail to clean
or clear clogged air holes in the sprayer tip. After
cleaning the sprayer hoses put the siphoned hose
in a small container of diesel and prime the sprayer.
This will keep the packing in the sprayer from getting
hard and causing the sprayer to leak or losing power.
Diesel fuel can be recycled back into the container
for when you are ready to use your sprayer again.
Always read and follow all safety warnings in the
instruction manual and or manufacturer's literature.
Keep all literature for future reference. Follow
all recommendations regarding the use of protective
clothing, eyewear and equipment.
PRESSURE WASHERS:
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Pressure washing can be used to clean your house
annually this will extend the life of the paint
job. If your exterior paint is in good repair you
can wash your house with a garden hose before painting.
If you have loose paint and decide to use a pressure
washer, select a washer that has 2300 to 2700 pounds
per square inch (psi). Select the tip size of 40
degrees to start with. After you get use to the
pressure washer you can move to 25 degrees. When
pressure washing wood siding take care not to pit
the grain or damage the siding in any way. Start
by holding the tip about 3 feet away from the siding
taking care not to damage the wood. Gradually move
closer as you move the wand from left to right as
you gage the right distance that you can remove
loose paint without damaging the siding. It is almost
impossible to remove all the lose paint with a pressure
washer. Some scraping will be needed. After pressure
washing, use a putty knife to test the area that
paint was remove by the pressure washer for loose
paint. Remove lose paint with the putty knife. Feather
sand the area that the paint was removed to eliminate
high ridges.
DEALING
WITH VARIOUS SURFACE PROBLEMS
PAINTING THE EXTERIOR OF THE HOUSE:
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Weather conditions can affect the proper drying
of finishes. The surface should be clean and dry.
Latex finishes can be applied to slightly damp surfaces.
Oil-base coatings should only be applied to dry
surfaces. Avoid painting early in the morning or
later than two hours before sunset if condensation
is present. Temperature is important. As a general
rule, oil based paint should not be applied at temperatures
below 40 degrees and latex paint below 50 degrees.
If the temperature is expected to fall below 50
degrees during 24-hour period following application,
paint should not be applied. Paint should not be
applied in the direct sun or to hot surfaces nor
when the air temperature is expected to exceed 85
degrees, such practices can cause blistering in
oil paint and lap marks in latex paint. Follow the
sun around the house when applying coats to avoid
subsequent heating of the surface before the finish
has dried. Lap marks can also result from terminating
the wet edge at an unnatural point. For best results
apply paint so that the wet edge terminates at a
logical stopping place such as the end of a board
or at a window or door casing. For the most durable
and protective coating, all bare wood should be
primed with Duracryl 50 Prime. Two coats of Duracryl
topcoat should be applied. A stain-blocking primer
Best Paint's Universal Primer is essential when
cedar or light-colored latex finishes are applied
over wood siding. The first coat of paint should
be applied with a roller then back brushed. Or,
if spray applied, paint should be followed by back
brushing or back rolling. The second coat can be
applied by any conventional means. Always use quality
materials and application equipment.
BLISTERING PROBLEMS:
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Blistering is generally caused by heat or moisture
and is manifested by dome shaped swellings that
occur under the paint film much like blisters under
the skin. They occur most commonly with oil-based
finishes, but latex finishes can also blister. Blisters
are caused by applying the coating in direct sunlight
or on cool surfaces that are subsequently heated
by the sun before the coating has had sufficient
time to dry. The finish skins over before the volatile
solvents have evaporated. The trapped solvents cannot
escape and form bubbles under the film. Darker colored
coatings are especially susceptible to heat blisters
because they absorb more heat than lighter colors.
Moisture blisters can be caused by application of
oil-based coatings to damp wood or by the entrance
of water into the wood through the end grain. They
can also be caused by faulty construction practices
which allow outside moisture to enter behind the
siding or moisture from within the house to migrate
through the walls and into the siding. If the blisters
occur after application of an oil-based coating,
try to identify the type of blistering by breaking
a few of the bubbles. Temperature blisters only
occur under the outer layer of paint. If another
layer of paints is visible underneath the blisters,
they were probably due to heat. If bare wood or
water is underneath the blister, they were probably
caused by moisture. In either case, the blisters
should be removed and the affected areas refinished.
If the blisters appear after applying latex paint,
do not break them. Quite often they will disappear
after the paint film dries. However, if the blisters
break or wrinkle after the film has dried, they
should be removed.
FLAKING OR PEELING FINISH:
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Most film-forming finishes eventually fail by flaking
or peeling. This type of failure results from loss
of finish adhesion to the wood surface and is manifested
by actual detachment of film fragments. While such
failures may eventually be expected, premature flaking
or peeling indicates other problems exist. Early
loss of adhesion can be due to poor surface preparation,
improper finish application, or moisture. To correct
the problem, the cause must be identified and eliminated.
Loose finish or poorly bonded finish must be removed
prior to re-coating or the failure will soon repeat.
Flaking or peeling finishes can be removed in a
number of ways such as scraping, sanding, brushing
or pressure washing. Small areas such as trim are
often cleaned of loose, deteriorated finish by using
a paint remover followed by thorough rinsing. A
heat gun, in combination with scraping, can also
be effective. Scraping and then sanding to a featheredge
in areas where the finish is still well bonded can
often prepare smooth surfaces. Textured surfaces
may be cleaned with a garden hose and scrubbing
with a stiff, nonmetallic bristle brush. More severe
cases of flaking or peeling may require pressure
washing. Once the surface is properly cleaned and
prepared, it should be refinished with a top quality
coating applied according to the manufactures instructions.
The most durable finishes for exposed wood (unpainted)
is to prime with Best's Duracryl 50 Exterior/Interior
Primer. Woods with high extractive content (tannin
Bleed) such as cedar, redwood you must use Best
Paint's Universal Primer. This is a Tannin Block
Primer. Use Duracryl 100% acrylic latex topcoat.
Two topcoats can extend the life of the finish by
as much as a factor of two.
PRESSURE-PRESERVATIVE TREATED WOOD:
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Pressure-preservative-treated wood is used primarily
where high moisture conditions exist such as in
wood decks, fences, marine structures or any ground
contract application. Wood treated with preservative
oils such as coal-tar creosote and pentacholorophenol
are not generally considered paintable. Any dust
or residual surface salts on treated wood should
be removed with a stiff, nonmetallic bristle brush.
A respirator should be worn to avoid breathing the
dust and gloves should be worn when handling treated
wood. Do not smoke or eat when handling treated
wood. Always wash skin and clothes thoroughly after
handling treated wood. Never burn treated wood.
Either using dark earthtone colors or apply Best
Paint Universal Primer a stain blocking latex primer
prior to topcoating can minimize the discoloration
problem. Priming first and topcoating with a dark
color is advisable.
SURFACTANT BLEEDING ON EXTERIOR FINISHES:
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Dew, fog, condensation and rain can present a peculiar
problem to exterior surfaces freshly painted with
latex paint. Painting a cool surface (below 50 degrees
Fahrenheit with air temperature above 50 degree
Fahrenheit late in the day) followed by an evening
temperature drop bellow 50 degree Fahrenheit, can
adversely affect the paint film. Even though latex
paints dry to the touch very rapidly, a complete
hardening of additives in the paint takes days and,
under certain conditions, even weeks. During the
critical hardening period, heavy condensation, dew,
rain or water from sprinklers sometimes cause the
phenomenon, surfactant bleed. This can have an unsightly
appearance of sticky white, brown or clear spots
or runs. The bleeding in no way affects the durability
or integrity of the paint film. Under normal dry
conditions, these surfactants would vaporize from
the paint film. Deep colors and custom mixes on
smooth surfaces suffer the most frequent occurrence
of this problem, but light colors can be affected
too. Repainting with another coat of latex paint
is not a satisfactory corrective measure. These
water-soluble surfactants should be washed off before
the sun bakes it hard. If caught early, ordinary
cold water and a medium bristle brush will remove
them satisfactorily. Household detergent and warm
water should remove most stubborn stains. This problem
can be greatly reduced by using Best Paint's Duracryl
Exterior/Interior paint because Duracryl has less
Surfactant that slow down the hardening process.
WAX BLEED ON HARDBOARD SIDING:
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Discoloration on painted hardboard siding can be
caused by the migration of wax from the board during
service. This phenomenon, commonly called "wax
bleed" can occur on painted hardboard surfaces
finished with either latex or oil based finishes.
Flat paints and stains applied in thin films and
darker colors are most susceptible to wax bleed.
Other factors that can contribute to wax bleed are
variation in board density, moisture from inside
a building or external moisture such as rain or
high humidity. Dark colored finishes readily absorb
heat from the sun, which tends to soften and plasticize
the wax. The porous nature of flat coatings in combination
with thin films allows the softened wax to migrate
to the surface of the finish causing a milky or
mottled discoloration. To eliminate other possible
causes of discoloration, apply a few drops of household
bleach to the affected area. If the discoloration
disappears, it is probably due to mildew or staining
rather than wax bleed. Next apply a few drops of
water on a discolored area and then to a non-discolored
area. If the water beads up on the discolored area
but is readily absorbed in the non-discolored area,
the discoloration is probably caused by wax bleed.
All areas discolored by wax bleed should be thoroughly
cleaned with a detergent solution, followed by a
low-pressure rinse with clean water. In extreme
cases of wax build up, a clean rag saturated with
solvents may be needed to remove wax deposits. Change
rag and saturate with fresh solvent frequently.
Finally, clean the affected area with a detergent
solution and rinse thoroughly. To avoid discoloration
from wax bleed on hardboard siding follow the siding
recommendations for coating types and number of
coats. Best Paint's Duracryl Exterior/Interior has
no plasticizers.
MILDEW: [TOP]
Mildew is a fungus that will grow on almost any
surface under favorable conditions of moisture,
temperature and on organic food sources such as
dirt. Mildew most commonly appears as small black
spots that, in severe cases, can completely darken
a side or an area of a building. Mildew may sometimes
be confused with dirt. A simple test to identify
mildew can be made by applying a drop or two of
household bleach (5% sodium hypo chlorite) to the
affected area. If the discoloration is caused by
mildew, the mildew, the mildew will generally bleach
within one or two minutes. Dirt or other matter
probably discolors dark areas that do not bleach.
Mildew should always be removed from a surface prior
to painting or it may grow through the newly applied
coating. There are a number of commercial mildew
removers available. Mildew can also be removed with
a solution of one part household bleach, (5% sodium
hypo chlorite) and their parts by volume of warm
water. Scrubbing with a nonmetallic bristle brush
will help in stubborn cases. CAUTION: NEVER MIX
BLEACH WITH AMMONIA OR ANY MATERIAL CONTAINING AMMONIA.
Also, when applying the bleach solution, avoid inhaling
the vapors and protect eyes with suitable goggles
and skin tarps. Allow the bleach solution a few
minutes to destroy the mildew and then thoroughly
rinse the siding surface with clean water. To help
control mildew growth on coated surfaces, make sure
rather finish contains a good mildewcide. Additional
mildewcide may be added for problem areas. For best
results, have the mildewcide added by the supplier
and mixed into the finish on a paint shaker.
FADING: [TOP]
Fading may occur as an overall lightening or flattening
of a colored finish or it may manifest itself as
a mottled, uneven discoloration, sometimes milky
in appearance, fading generally results from a gradual
breakdown of resins and pigments in the coating
during weathering, leaving a chalky deposit on the
surface. It is usually most noticeable on the weather
sides of a building such as the south and west sides.
Areas protected by overhangs and shrubs may fade
much lower than unprotected areas. Certain pigments
used to make shades of colors such as blue and yellow
are more subject to fading than others. And dark
colors are generally more susceptible out fading
than light colors. Also, oil-based finishes are
frequently more troublesome relative to fading than
latex paint. A certain amount of chalking is usually
desirable because it helps the surface clean itself
of dirt and other pollutants. Most coatings are
formulated to chalk at a certain rate. Slow chalking
finishes are generally slower to fade. Chalky surfaces
are not only subject to fading, but they can cause
discoloration of masonry or other painted surfaces
below due to washing action of rain. Chalky surfaces
can also interfere with adhesion of subsequently
applied finishes. Therefore, removal of excess chalk
is essential prior to re-coating the surface. Chalky
surfaces can be cleaned with a detergent solution
and scrubbing with a nonmetallic bristle brush or
low-pressure washer followed by thorough rinsing
with clean water.
IRON STAINING:
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Iron staining can be caused by the use of non-galvanized
ferrous fastener or by steel fragments deposited
on the surface of wood by wire brushes, steel wool
or ferrous tools. The staining may range from a
reddish-brown color (rust) to black or blue-black.
Rust is caused by simple corrosion of uncoated ferrous
fasteners such as nails, staples or screws. The
dark black or blue-black stains can result from
a chemical reaction between iron fragments and wood
extractives. These problems are relatively easy
to avoid. The fasteners should always be a non-corrosive
type such as high quality galvanized or aluminum.
In demanding applications such as marine environments
or when treated wood is used, it is advisable to
use stainless steel or Monel fasteners. Also, wood
siding should never be cleaned width a wire brushes
or steel wool. Always use a nonmetallic synthetic
brush. If staining problems do occur there are some
remedial procedures available. Staining fasteners
may be countersunk, caulked, spot-primed and then
top coated to match the surrounding finish or prime
with Best's Universal primer and topcoat.
EXTRACTIVE STAINING:
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Extractives are chemical compounds
that occur naturally in most wood species. They
provide color to wood in shades of red, yellow and
brown. Extractives are soluble in various solvents
including water. Moisture can cause water-soluble
extractives such as tannins to migrate to the surface
of wood siding resulting in unsightly discoloration
of light-colored latex finishes. Applying additional
topcoats will not stop extractive staining. Moisture
will cause the extractives to continue migrating
through each coat to the surface of the siding.
The intensity of staining can vary according to
the amount of extractives present in wood. During
rainy seasons, they may wash away naturally in a
matter of a few weeks or months. To hasten the process,
extractives can often be removed from the finished
surface by cleaning with a mild detergent solution
and a soft bristle brush. There are also commercial
products available for more stubborn causes. The
best way to prevent extractive staining is to apply
one or two coats of Best Paint's Universal tannin
blocking primer. Redwood and cedar lumber siding
may be primed with tannin blocking primer.
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